Roberto Rubegni is just the kind of madman we seek out here: an absolute geek on biodynamics/permaculture, he's an organic farmer / micro-producer who does only two things, and does them as perfectly as he knows how: olive oil and Sangiovese. Muscular, yes, but like a mile-runner, not a weight-lifter; it's also lifted with notes of cedar, shroomy earth, and tangy tobacco. A wine of subtlety, purity, and freakish value (esp. when one considers that its peers tend to cost upwards of $80!).