Given that this wine is made to spend at least ten years on lees (with an eye towards fifteen, in time), a lot of effort goes into increasing acidity in the initial wine to keep it fresh and balanced, even as the creaminess and toastiness from the lees increases. That’s certainly the case here: even at fourteen years there’s a youthful zestiness (white stonefruit, meyer lemon) and good acid as well as the hallmark brioche-y, baked-good creaminess and texture these wines are renowned for. A superb vintage that still has plenty to give.

The mousse and bead are top notch. Really complex aromas of toast, meringue, honey, baked apple and nougat. Super sophisticated on the palate, white stone-fruit, grilled nuts, pastry and ripe apple. Long, textured and creamy, this is top class, delicious fizz.

—Aaron Brasher, The Real Review (96 points)

Cloth label and clearly a much-treasured product. Initial cuvée is deliberately high in acidity to withstand the long ageing. Nose is a little light initially with increasingly bready aromas eventually forthcoming. Savoury, not to say umami, on the palate. There's something a bit Japanese about this! Very unusual. Not the run-of-the-mill copy of champagne. Very mouth-filling and interesting. Delicate. Bone dry. Makes you think. A zen fizz? I'd suggest drinking this on its own as it demands attention and is probably not powerful enough to stand up to food – except perhaps for perfect sashimi.

—Jancis Robinson (16.5 points)