Start by measuring the gap you need to fill with a feeler gauge. For fine adjustments under 0.20 mm, the 0.05 mm or 0.10 mm sheets let you stack multiple layers to reach the exact clearance. For gaps of 0.30 mm and above, a single thicker sheet is usually more stable than a stack of thin ones. If you're unsure, order one sheet at the thinnest increment you think you'll need — it's easier to add a layer than to remove material.

304 stainless has a tensile strength of roughly 515–720 MPa, which is adequate for light-duty brackets and clips. However, thin foil gauges (under 0.50 mm) are not suited to primary structural loads — they are designed for shims, gaskets, heat shields, and similar non-load-bearing uses. For structural parts, consider thicker plate stock and consult an engineer for load calculations.

304 stainless steel resists rust in most outdoor and mildly corrosive environments thanks to its chromium oxide passive layer. It performs well in rain, humidity, and mild chemical exposure. In coastal or high-chloride environments (salt spray, swimming pools), 316 stainless is a better choice because 304 can develop surface pitting over time when exposed to chlorides continuously.

Yes — 304 stainless is weldable using TIG, MIG (with 308L filler), or resistance welding. Very thin gauges (0.05–0.15 mm) require careful heat control to avoid warping or burn-through; a TIG welder with a foot pedal and a backing bar is recommended. Soldering is possible with stainless-compatible flux, though the joint strength will be lower than a welded connection.

It depends on the largest gasket dimension you need to cut. The 200 × 1000 mm sheet suits most pipe flanges up to DN150 and smaller face gaskets. If you're cutting gaskets for larger flanges or need to nest multiple shapes efficiently, the 300 × 1000 mm sheet gives you more usable width and reduces waste. Both sizes are 1000 mm long, so you get the same number of cuts along the length.

For straight cuts, clamp the sheet between two pieces of flat bar stock and score along the edge with a sharp utility knife — the metal will snap cleanly. Aviation tin snips work well for curved cuts; use straight-cut snips for long straight lines to avoid distorting the edge. A laser cutter or waterjet produces the cleanest edges with no burrs. Avoid using an angle grinder on foil-thin gauges as the heat and vibration can warp the sheet.

The sheets are supplied as bare stainless steel without a protective plastic film. The surface finish is a standard mill finish. If you need to protect the surface during handling or fabrication, apply a strip of masking tape or low-tack film before cutting. Remove any tape residue with isopropyl alcohol before final installation.